Note: This trip report is based on notes and recollection. It is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate. Read it at your leisure but use it at your own risk!

General info: We completed this trip with 8 campers during the summer of 2002. We did not re-outfit during the summer.

Day 0 (June 29): Van ride to Lac Albanel

Day 1 (June 30): Lac Albanel (3/4 day)

The trip begins where the road literally ends with a big yellow "FIN" sign. We were dropped off about 10:30am. We paddled over to the thin blue line connecting Albanel and Mistassini. We discovered a rapid, and decided to camp before it on Albanel. We bushed a campsite on the NW side of Ile Dorval in a bay.

Day 2 (July 1): Lac Albanel (full day)

Shot the first rapid on the right side. There was a trail on the right shore. The next rapid, which was bigger and went around a corner to the right, had no portage trail around it on the right side. We walked about a km or so in the bush to scout the rapid and discovered that the rapid turned bigger and bigger and ended up as a huge gorge about a mile or two down from us. We decided to seek a different route to Mistassini, and we lined up the rapid we had just shot. We paddled north up Albanel about 30km and bushed a nice site just after Pointe des Genéres on Peninsule du Dauphin.

Day 3 (July 2): Lac Albanel (full day)

We explored two route options to Baie du Portage of Mistassini from Baie Jeffreys. One was up the creek to Lac Muk, and the other was up the more northern creek to the long lake with five islands in it. We spent many hours crashing through the bush at both options and couldn't find any trails (we found some axe cuts) and the creeks were impassable. At around 4pm we decided to head south to Baie Massicotte. We paddled down and camped in the bay just north of Pointe de la Doradille on a beach.

Day 4 (July 3): Lac Albanel to first small lake (full day)

We paddled to Baie Massicotte and portaged into the small lake directly north of the bay. There was a great trail (200 yards) left of the creek so our hopes were high about this route to Mistassini. We looked for a trail leading us to the small "bat mobile" lake to the east, but none existed. We bushed a trail (easy walking) to the lake, but it was late and we decided to camp on the first lake. We camped on the southern shore to the east of the creek near/on a big rock.

Day 5 (July 4): Small creek (full day)

We portaged (350 yards) into the "bat mobile" lake. This lake has a lift over in the middle of it. We then bushed another portage to the lake with two small islands in it to the NW. This portage was 800 yards and was fairly difficult. We followed the creek out of this lake. There was a beaver-dam lift over at the start of the creek. We paddled the creek for a bit, and after a small pond it became extremely narrow and thick with alders. We removed many deadfalls and essentially walked our canoes down it. Near the contour line the creek turned into a rocky and steep stream with waterfalls. We could see Mistassini in the distance because of our high position, but we realized getting there would be difficult and camped on the north side of the creek where it became impassable.

Day 6 (July 5): Creek to Lac Mistassini (1/2 day)

We bushed another portage directly north to Mistassini. We had to wind our way around tall cliffs. The portage was about 1000 yards. There was a huge north wind on Mistassini, and we paddled south behind Ile de la Cache and camped on the northern point at the end of the gorge connecting Albanel and Mistassini.

Day 7 (July 6): Lac Mistassini (1/2 day)

We paddled NW to Pointe Saint Jean. There is a big lodge west of the gorge in that bay near Pointe Saint Nicholas. We paddle to the Passe du Grande Percé. The wind kicked up, and we decided to camp on the south side of Ile Pahipanouk. There was a campsite there - our first.

Day 8 (July 7): Wabissinane River (full day)

We woke up early and paddled across Mistassini to the mouth of the Wabissinane River. There was no wind, but the smoke limited our visibility to about 100 meters. We relied totally on our GPS and compass to get across the lake. At the mouth of Wabissinane the smoke was so thick that we had to breathe through handkerchiefs. We made breakfast and considered our options. The smoke seemed to be coming from the north, so we thought about paddling down Mistassini to the Rupert and scrapping our northern route. Some native guides showed up to fish, and we asked them about the fires. They told us that going south was a bad option because of fires and that our route up the Wabissinane was the safest.

There is a portage (300 yards) at the mouth of the river on the left. There is an island lift over about a kilometer up the river. When the river turns to the NE, there are two portages around rapids. They are about 200 yards each, and they are on the right shore. We camped at the beginning of the second in an old burn. It is a nice site.

Day 9 (July 8): Wabissinane River (3/4 day)

We had a 500-yard portage on the left and some lift-overs before the split. We took the east fork of the river. After the split there were more lift-overs and line-ups. At 51° 31' N go east off of the river into the long bay with the height of land portage. The bay is very sandy and would be difficult in low water. We camped at the beginning of the portage which is about 2/3 the way up the bay just before it turns north. Portage and campsite are difficult to find because of a burn; we had to walk the shore to find it.

Day 10 (July 9): Lac Baudeau (full day)

The height of land portage is about 400 yards and easy to follow. There is a 300-yard portage on the right at a west bend on the next creek. We walked the whole portage; there is a loading area after about 200 yards which should be avoided. The trail turns right and follows the creek for another 100 yards or so. At the end of the third lake section of the day, there is a 1200-yard portage option on the right. We did not take the portage. We shot down the first small rapid and had to lift over a 5-foot ledge. We had many line downs and lift-overs; the portage option may be a better choice depending on water levels. The final lift over past the falls into Baudeau is on the right over a very slick rock. We bushed a campsite about 2km north behind an island on the west shore.

Day 11 (July 10): Lac Baudeau (1/4 day)

We paddled about 4km up the lake in a stiff headwind. The wind, cold and rain convinced us that further travel was futile. We camped on the right shore on a beach site in a crescent bay behind a small island. The fly area was on the beach, but the tents were high up in the sphagnum.

Day 12 (July 11): Tichegami River (3/4 day)

We paddled up to the Tichegami River. We took the southern channel. There was decent sized rapid (no hash mark on map) a few kilometers down. We shot the top and lined the bottom. We paddled to the next rapid and camped on the right shore at a clearing high up on the bank.

Day 13 (July 12): Tichegami River (full day)

We shot the next stretch of rapids. These rapids were not marked with a hash mark on the map. The first hash mark after the confluence of the channels is a technical ledge shot. We scouted for a long time and shot the right side. We had to line down the final part of this rapid. We shot and lined down the next two hash marks. We didn't see portage options for any of these rapids. We camped on the right shore just before the double hash mark after the 90° turn to the west.

Day 14 (July 13): Tichegami River (full day)

We shot or lined all of the hash marks except for the second double hash mark of the day which we portaged on the right. We camped on the island about 4km down from the second hash mark and before the river splits again. We bushed a site on the northern side of the island. The whole area was burned except for the island. The fly area was on the beach.

Day 15 (July 14): East Main River (full day)

We shot the next two rapids. Only one is marked on the map and it is an island rapid; we shot the left side. We then took the south channel with only one hash mark. We had to shoot, line and portage to get around this one. It was a major pain, and the northern route should be explored in the future. We eddy-hopped and lined the last hash mark before the East Main confluence. We paddled down the East Main and took the channel south of Ile Veneur. We camped on the left shore a few kilometers down from the split. The fly area was on a gravel bar near some shallow swifts and tent sites were up on the high banks.

Day 16 (July 15): Lac De La Marée (full day)

We continued down the southern channel until we reached Lac de la Marée. It was a horrible and cold day with driving rain and a nasty headwind. We camped on the northern shore just before the pass which would take you back up to the East Main. Our campsite was at the top of a large sloping rock. Across the pass there is a Cree campsite (51° 53' north, 74° 16' west) which was full of trash.

Day 17 (July 16): Creek (3/4 day)

We paddled down Lac de la Marée. The middle part of the lake is confusing because of low water. Islands, rocks and shallows make navigating very difficult. We followed the current (which we were going up). We paddled to the extreme southwest three-finger bay of the lake. The correct creek to take comes directly from south south east. We were able to paddle up the creek to the first pond. The portage from this lake takes out just west of the creek. It goes up a hill and then crosses the creek, which was a pain. This portage puts you into a dog-leg lake. The portage out of the dog-leg lake is east of the creek. It takes you to a small pond, and directly across it is the next portage. We decided to not put in and walk around the pond directly to the next lake. The total length was probably 500 yards. We camped at the end of this portage.

Day 18 (July 17): Long and Skinny Lake (full day)

The next portage (100 yards) is along the south side of the creek that flows west into a small pond. Across the pond there is a 900-yard height of land portage into the Moon River. There are two 50 yard portages on the north bank where the river becomes a narrow creek, and they lead to a small lake. The next portage (100 yards) is on the north side of the creek and takes you to a larger lake. Go to the northern boot-shaped bay and take a 250-yard portage back to the creek. The start of the portage is near a boulder. We then paddled down the creek a bit and portaged about 200 yards around a rocky section. There was no trail, but the walking wasn't bad. We then paddled through the mushroom-shaped lake back into the creek. There's a 150-yard portage on the south side of the creek to get you into the next lake. When then paddled about 10km down to the next portage which is across an island. The portage is about 50 yards and has a steep ending. The final obstacle of the day was a rocky rapid that we shot. There might be a portage on the left shore. We camped about 2km down on a big granite terrace campsite that we bushed. This is beautiful country.

Day 19 (July 18): Rest Day

Day 20 (July 19): Moon River (3/4 day)

We paddled to the end of the lake and portaged (600 yards) to the small lake directly north. The 1-250,000 maps are confusing here because it looks like you are portaging off of the Moon River. However, the river does a horseshoe bend here to the north and then west and then flows south into the lake directly to the west of the lake you've portaged into. There should be a thin blue line, but there isn't. The creek was smooth sailing all the way to the next long lake with the exception of one rapid that had to be lined down. We paddled all the way down the long lake. Be sure to stay north around the peninsula in the middle of the lake. We did not take the Moon River out of this lake; we portaged back to the river at the bottom the long bay (see day 21). We camped near the bottom of the long bay on the east shore west of the long island. There is another campsite further down the bay where it turns directly south. Our campsite had a terrific view of some huge cliffs.

Day 21 (July 20): Moon River (full day)

We paddled to the end of the bay and portage 100 yards into a small moose pond that's not on the map. We then portaged from the west side of the moose pond back to the river. The portage is almost directly across from the first portage, and it is difficult to find. It is a decent trail except for the middle where it crosses a small creek. Be sure to look for blazes. We then paddled 13km or so down through the four hash marks on the map. #1 was an easy shot; #2 we lined; #3 was a long line down which goes to the right; and #4 was a shallow rapid that we shot. We camped just before the SW narrow channel after the two little islands where the river gets funky. The site was on a granite terrace on the right.

Day 22 (July 21): Moon River (3/4 day)

We lifted over the first rapid, and shot or lined the next few hash marks. This was all before the sharp NE turn of the river. The rest of the day was similar - we lined or shot everything and it got a bit old after a while. We camped on the left shore about 3km before the confluence with Rupert (which you can see) behind a small island.

Day 23 (July 22): Rupert River: End of portage campsite (3/4 day)

We paddled down to the confluence. We portaged left around the first rapid (75 yards). There is a small campsite here. We paddled the left shore across the bay and then took another portage (200 yards) on the left. We then paddled down to the Gorge. We approached left. The portage takes out on the left shore, goes across the bridge and then finishes on the right shore. The portage trail can be found about 100 yards down the road on the left. There is visitors' area at the Gorge with picnic benches, pit toilets and a dumpster for trash. We put in and paddled the right shore across the bay to a hairy rock-hop portage on the right. It was probably about 400 yards. We put in again, following the right shore. We eddy-hopped and shot the next rapid on the right shore. About 2km down the river (after the series of Gorge rapids) there is another portage. It is about 700 yards or so, and there is a campsite at the end. We stayed there.

Day 24 (July 23): Rupert River: Creek site (full day)

We started the day by hugging the right shore. The second rocky point from the campsite was a neat little shot on the extreme right shore. This is followed by another unmarked rapid that we shot on the right. We then paddled down a few kilometers to the next portage. It is on the left and runs about 400 yards. In past years sections have ferried to the right shore after the portage to finish the rapid. We stayed left and did a lift over on and around a rock. We paddled down the river and took the small southern channel of the river that begins at around 75° 43' west. It had three highly irritating lift-overs at the start with out any type of trail. After that is smooth paddling until the end where it turns into a small rocky rapid. I wouldn't suggest using this route again. When we re-entered the Rupert, we paddled to the right shore and camped on a beach just east of the small creek which is behind two islands.

Day 25 (July 24): Rupert River: Island site (1/2 day)

We paddled down the river. There is a small unmarked rapid around the first islands you reach; we shot center and exited right. We paddled to an island campsite (east side of the island) at about 77° 12' west.

Day 26 (July 25): Rupert River: Just below Martin River (1/2 day)

We paddled down to the first hash mark after the Martin River. We shot the top half on the right, and then camped on the right shore next to the rapid. We played in the standing waves with empty canoes.

Day 27 (July 26): Nemiscau (full day)

Lifted over second half of the hash mark on the right side. We paddled down to the Chewami Rapids (30' falls). We portaged right 800 yards around the first three hash marks. The portage had a cool wooden bridge over some muskeg. We shot the next two hash marks on the right side; they were non-technical with big stacks. We paddled down Nemiscau in the rain. The village, which has about 30 buildings, was vacant. We camped on the southern point of the triangle-shaped island about 2km north of the village. It was an old Wabun bush site.

Day 28 (July 27): Rupert River: End of Link (3/4 day)

Paddled up Nemiscau through bulbous or "pac-man" peninsula to the link. The first rapid on the link was an easy rock-dodge. We then portaged on the left for about 800 yards around the falls (double hash mark on map). We continued down the link. Just before it turns to the right there is a 400 yard portage on the left which takes you back to the Rupert. We camped at a Wabun bush site on the left shore in the first bay after the link. The campsite is near a large rock and can be hard to spot.

Day 29 (July 28): Rupert River: Cree Site (3/4 day)

Just before the river splits into two channels, there was a small island rapid; we shot on the right side. We took the southern channel. We shot the first hash mark in the center and exited right. Down the channel a bit there is an unmarked rapid which is an easy shot. We took the southern channel at the next split in the river. We camped on the western end of Peat Island at large flat site.

Day 30 (July 29): Rest Day

Day 31 (July 30): Rupert River: Cree Site (3/4 day)

We paddled down to Oatmeal Falls. The portage is near the end of small bay on the right just before the falls. The portage crosses a paved road near the end. The trail begins directly across the road by a sign. After you cross the road, the trail winds for about 150 yards and then goes left to the river. The trail to the river is a small creek. We paddled down to White Beaver Falls. The first portage is 30 yards on the right and goes up and over a clay bank. It was ridiculously slippery in the rain. Paddled across the next bay to 300-yard portage around the rest of the falls. We portaged the next hash mark on the right. The trail was about 700 yards. This hash mark has been shot by some sections, and there is probably a shorter portage option further down river. It was a miserable day and we decided to portage to get warm. We camped just after the narrows on the east shore in the widening of the river. It was a Cree campsite on a beach (77° 35' west).

Day 32 (July 31): Rupert River: Bottom of Fours (3/4 day)

We paddled down to the beginning of the Fours. The portage takes out on the left shore before the fast moving water near a hydro hut. This first part is a new extension of the portage which used to begin around the first blind corner of the rapid. The portage goes through a field of tag alders and the trail can be difficult to follow. Near the end of the trail is takes a right turn down towards the water. It is probably about 1500 yards. There is an island campsite after this portage. The next portage around the second of the Fours takes out on the right shore just before the water gets moving. It is about 700 yards. About 1/3 down the portage you can walk down to a great viewing rock of the rapid; this is a must. We then followed the right shore down to the next portage which takes out on the right. The trail is 1.15 miles or 2000 yards. We camped at the end at a nice campsite.

Day 33 (August 1): Rupert River: End of 350 Portage (3/4 day)

We paddled down to the next rapid after the Fours. It was too big, so we portaged 100 yards on the right. We paddled down to Cat Rapids. There are a few portage options around the Cat on the right shore. You can portage for 200 yards, put in for a brief paddle, and then portage another mile. However, there is also a trail between these two portages, and we simply walked the whole thing. (The water between the portages was too big anyway.) The entire portage was 1.35 miles or about 2400 yards. There is a campsite at the end of this portage. We continued down to the next portage around the island rapid. Stay left of the big island to get to the portage, which is 350 yards long. There is a decent campsite at the end; we stayed there.

Day 34 (August 2): Rupert River: Smokey Hills (full day)

We paddled down to Plum Pudding and took the small channel on the left to avoid the top of the rapid. The channel is well before the rapid; you can see all three islands of the rapid clearly when you make the turn. A few kilometers down the channel there is a portage on the right (400 yards) which takes you back to the main channel of the Rupert. There is a campsite at the start of this portage. Plum is two sections of rapids with a short section of fast running water in the middle. We eddy-hopped on the left shore down the first section and down the first half of the second section. The second half of the second section is the famous part of Plum Pudding. We shot close to the left shore to avoid the big stacks. The water is huge and there is little room for error. If you go to close to the center, you'll swamp (trust me, I know). After Plum Pudding we paddled down to Smokey Hills. There are two portages on the right to get around these rapids. The first is 1200 yards and ends in a moose pond. The second, the bowman's portage (1000 yards), is across the moose pond. We camped at the end of the second in a grassy site used regularly by the inhabitants of Waskaganish.

Day 35 (August 3): Waskaganish (1/2 day)

We paddled down to the last rapids of the river right before the reserve. They are too big to shoot. There is a portage option on the right shore, but getting there is nearly impossible. We did the world's-sketchiest-rock-hop-portage to get around this one. We shot the rest of the rapid and paddled to the reserve.

Day 36 (August 4): Bus

Maps used (1:250,000):
32P - Lac Baudeau
32O - Lac Mesgouez
32N - Lac Nemiscau
32M - Fort Rupert

If you wanted to bring 1:50,000 maps for the crossover to the Moon River, you would need 32-O/16, 32-O/15 and 32-O/10.